{"id":19266,"date":"2022-06-27T19:10:14","date_gmt":"2022-06-27T23:10:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/greatbiggreenhouse.com\/?p=19266"},"modified":"2022-06-27T19:10:14","modified_gmt":"2022-06-27T23:10:14","slug":"bonnies-garden-diseases-in-the-garden","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.meadowsfarms.com\/great-big-greenhouse-gardening-blog\/bonnies-garden-diseases-in-the-garden\/","title":{"rendered":"BONNIE’S GARDEN – Diseases In The Garden"},"content":{"rendered":"

Our garden vegetables are prone to certain diseases. Our best defense is knowledge and good cultural practices.<\/p>\n

Learn About Vegetable Garden Diseases<\/h3>\n
    \n
  1. Diseases are opportunistic\u2014tending to attack stressed plants.\u00a0 Starting with healthy organic-rich soil is the first line of defense.\u00a0\u00a0Make sure plants are in the correct amount of sunlight and water when needed\u2014but do not over-water.<\/li>\n
  2. There is a valid reason for crop rotation.\u00a0 Some diseases can linger in the soil for up to three years so tomato family members (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, tomatillos) should not be grown in the same spot more than three years in a row.\u00a0 Same for cucumber family members (cucumbers, squash, pumpkins, melons).\u00a0 Rotate plants sooner if diseases appear.\u00a0\u00a0If you had problems with tomatoes, for example, you can plant cucumbers there next year, but plant tomato family members elsewhere.<\/li>\n
  3. Keep your garden free of weeds and debris\u2014summer and winter.\u00a0 Weeds and debris can host diseases.\u00a0 Weeds also force the veggies to compete for water and nutrients\u2014which stresses the plant. And they can provide cover for insects to hide and lay eggs.<\/li>\n
  4. Allow for adequate air circulation around your plants.\u00a0 When you have a limited amount of space, it\u2019s tempting to plant as many plants as possible.\u00a0 But with our humidity, we are just asking for fungal disease.\u00a0 Planting too close together also allows insects and diseases to move from plant to plant.\u00a0 When tomato plants are around two feet tall, remove any leaves touching the ground; then mulch lightly.\u00a0 This can help with pathogens that splash up on the foliage during a rain.<\/li>\n
  5. Avoid wetting the foliage when watering your garden.\u00a0 With our high humidity, why add to the problem by getting water all over our plants?\u00a0 A soaker hose puts the water right where you need it, and less evaporates so it\u2019s better for your water bill, too.\u00a0 Once plants are well-established, water less often, but deeply\u2013rather than light sprinkles every day or two.<\/li>\n
  6. Use lower nitrogen fertilizers\u2013particularly on tomatoes.\u00a0 I use Tomato-tone because it has calcium which can help prevent Blossom-end Rot\u2014a disease which can affect tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. But, it\u2019s also good all-purpose fertilizer that can be used on your entire garden\u2014not just tomatoes.<\/li>\n
  7. Stay on top of insect problems as insects can transmit diseases.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Despite our best efforts, sometimes we still have problems.\u00a0 So what can we do?\u00a0 If we are fairly certain it\u2019s a fungal disease then garden sulfur may help.\u00a0 A fungus is common early in the season, particularly when we\u2019ve had a cool, damp start.\u00a0 It\u2019s also common in later summer when the humidity has been off the scale.\u00a0 Since so many diseases start with brown and\/or yellow spots, however, try to go online and look-up tomato diseases to see if your particular problem looks more like blight, Septoria, Verticillium or Fusarium.<\/p>\n

    One more thought\u2014even a fungicide can kill a honeybee or butterfly if sprayed directly on them.\u00a0 Spray just before dark for best results\u2014this gives pollinators a change to go home first.\u00a0 And avoid fungicides containing copper.\u00a0\u00a0Even though copper sulfate is listed as an organic fungicide, there is evidence that it is more toxic to bees than is sulfur.<\/p>\n

    For most diseases, the only thing we can do is to remove the infected plant as soon as possible and dispose of it.\u00a0 DO NOT compost it.\u00a0 Put it in a plastic bag, tie it up and toss it before it has a chance to spread.\u00a0 And don\u2019t plant another member of that same vegetable family there again for several years.<\/p>\n

    Common Garden Diseases<\/h3>\n

    Here is a brief description of some of the more common garden diseases\u2014for a better diagnosis, check online for a picture of your problem.<\/p>\n

    Blight (Early or Late)<\/h4>\n

    Dark spots surrounded by yellow on older leaves first.\u00a0 Stressed plants are most at risk.\u00a0 Do not allow plants to wilt.\u00a0 Water thoroughly without over-watering.\u00a0 Do not feed until the first flowers appear and use a lower nitrogen fertilizer (like Tomato-tone).\u00a0 Blight can be easily transmitted when foliage is wet so avoid handling plant.\u00a0 Pick off the affected foliage and treat the plant with a mild organic fungicide.<\/p>\n

    Blossom End Rot<\/h4>\n

    Ever gone to pick that beautiful ripe tomato only to find the bottom is black?\u00a0 That\u2019s a disease called Blossom End Rot.\u00a0 Tomato family members are prone to it.\u00a0 It is caused by a calcium deficiency and\/or watering issues that prevent the plant from obtaining calcium.\u00a0 This is why I use the fertilizer Tomato-tone\u2014it has added calcium.\u00a0 Eggshells crushed and added to the soil will help\u2014in several years once they have composted down.<\/p>\n

    Fusarium Wilt<\/h4>\n

    Yellowing and wilting of leaves tend to occur on one side of the plant.\u00a0 In early stages, top growth may wilt in sun and recover in the evening, regardless of whether or not soil is moist.\u00a0 Planting in a well-draining spot is essential.\u00a0 Remove and destroy the infected plant.<\/p>\n

    Powdery Mildew<\/h4>\n

    A grayish white film appears on foliage.\u00a0 Our high humidity is the problem.\u00a0 When watering, avoid getting water on the plant foliage.\u00a0 When it first shows up, remove the worst of the affected foliage and apply an organic sulfur-based fungicide\u2014spray very early in the morning or just before dark to avoid sunburn.\u00a0 Don\u2019t use copper fungicides, as it is toxic to pollinators.\u00a0\u00a0Keep weeds and debris out of the garden to avoid spores wintering over.<\/p>\n

    Septoria leaf spot<\/h4>\n

    Small spots with darker brown margins appear.\u00a0 Heavily infected leaves will turn brown and fall off.\u00a0 Wet foliage and prolonged spells of wet cooler weather can affect.\u00a0 Do not use overhead watering.\u00a0 Remove and destroy infected plants.<\/p>\n

    Tobacco Mosaic<\/h4>\n

    Yellowish green and dark green patches. New leaves may be \u201cferny\u201d and distorted in appearance.\u00a0 Infection of a garden plant can be caused by smoking near tomato family members.\u00a0 Do not smoke or handle tobacco products near tomato or related plants.\u00a0 Mosaic can also show up in cucumber family members.<\/p>\n

    Verticillium<\/h4>\n

    Yellowing and wilting of leaves will occur all over-usually starting at the bottom.\u00a0 Top growth may wilt in sun, early on, and recover in the evening.\u00a0 Plant in well-draining soil only and remove and destroy infected plants.<\/p>\n

    This is by no means a complete list.\u00a0\u00a0There are many more so garden defensively.<\/p>\n

    If you have any problems or questions, come see us!<\/p>\n

    To read more from Bonnie, visit our blog<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    Our garden vegetables are prone to certain diseases. Our best defense is knowledge and good cultural practices. Learn About Vegetable Garden Diseases Diseases are opportunistic\u2014tending to attack stressed plants.\u00a0 Starting with healthy organic-rich soil is the first line of defense.\u00a0\u00a0Make sure plants are in the correct amount of sunlight and water when needed\u2014but do not … Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":19268,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-19266","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bonnies-garden","masonry-post","generate-columns","tablet-grid-50","mobile-grid-100","grid-parent","grid-50"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBONNIE'S GARDEN - Diseases In The Garden<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.meadowsfarms.com\/great-big-greenhouse-gardening-blog\/bonnies-garden-diseases-in-the-garden\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"BONNIE'S GARDEN - Diseases In The Garden\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Our garden vegetables are prone to certain diseases. 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